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These days, it feels like there's a new fashion-inclined fitness line every other week — and as committed as we are to athleisure, sometimes the price tags attached to them can feel excessive for clothes that, technically, are meant to be sweat in. The latest retailer to open up shop might be familiar to our friends across the pond, but it's worth getting reacquainted with its affordable basics in honor of its big stateside debut. U.K.-based Gymshark , which just hosted its first U.S. pop-up shop in New York, has built quite the following in the five years its been in business — just ask the 1.3 million folks following the brand on Instagram . The company has come a long way since then-19-year-old Ben Francis started it as a print-screening business in his garage, back in 2012. Today, it's perhaps best known for its "Flex Leggings," which consistently sell out within minutes every time they're restocked. Part of its success is likely due to the balance it maintains between basic and trend-driven designs, but we're guessing one of its biggest draws is also the crazy-affordable price tag attached to them: No item, save for one water-proof puffer jacket, is priced above $50. While you can still spot Francis' origin story in a few of Gymshark's logo-heavy hoodies, the label has since evolved into a unisex gym wear destination, backed by athletes, artists, and visionaries alike — all united by an appreciation of quality clothing on a budget. The aesthetic is less streetwear-inclined than some of its competitors, offering a step back towards tried-and-true gym basics.

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Simone McCarthy SL: I’m of the generation who started to use the internet for shopping in China, so I have followed shanzhai fashion for quite a long time, even before it was called this. Over these years, I observed how mainstream discourse will glorify the grassroots, innovative capacity of shanzhai especially in shanzhaiji — in the shanzhai cell phone industry. But they never talk about the same thing in this woman’s practice of shanzhai fashion. Even though these women designers actually practice the same idea, to create one’s own version, they never get the status or recognition of other industries. That is one thing that really triggered me to study this phenomenon. (For more on shanzhaiji and the Chinese dream, check out a Sinica Podcast   with Fan Yang ) A woman poses in a picture posted on a shanzhai fashion blog / Weibo SM: So who are the women behind shanzhai fashion design? SL: Generally, these women designers are the post-1980s generation, which means they are often the one child in the family and are part of the generation that has a lot of knowledge about the internet and social media. Most of them don’t have any professional training in fashion design; a lot of them just claim that they began this work because they really love sharing their experiences with fashion. The majority are college educated, have their full-time job, and just start their shanzhai business as a part-time hobby, eventually finding out they can make money through it and quitting their full-time job. They also normally work with their families, and many of them will have family members who are already working in garment production or the textile industry or who own factories.

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